Surfing (is) life
I just returned from a short visit back home in Mallorca with tons of pics, a big smile on my face and this very special feeling of inner peace. The Mediterranean wave machine has been pumping during these days and I've spent all days down by the beach... Surfing is life, gives life! Even when you don't surf yourself!
And that's what most people wonder about: how does it come that a female photography enthusiast is so passionated about taking surf pictures without surfing herself?!
Well, let me tell you that I did surf... time ago, not really good, but hey, at least I tried! Since I moved to Mallorca I fell in love with surfing, took lessons, bought a board, went to Canary Islands, soaking in everything I could learn about it... I got to know a tiny part of those feelings of adrenaline and freedom and deep connection while you surf. So guys, I do understand you! Funny though you don't understand me, haha!
I admire sea people, their way of living. I consider myself a sea person. I love being close to the ocean, the beach and waves give me inner peace and lots of energy. And to me, there's nothing more beautiful and powerful than watching a surfer riding their wave.
Gerry Lopez said "Surfing is the attitude dancing" and you can see that in the different way each surfer is surfing...
Some make art of it, the way they surf - and this is what I try to capture.
Surfing also teaches you a lot: to live in the present, to be patient and centered in yourself, to take care about the environment you live in, to appreciate this very special moment.... Same happens when you start to just photograph surfers or waves. I don't wanna say it's the same feeling like riding a wave, but in the end the same way of living.
So here I am, checking swell casts, surf spots, observing, waiting for the perfect moment.
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